Evans Waterless Coolant Canada – your Ultimate Guide

Posted by Robert McJannett on

Evans Waterless Coolant Canada – your Ultimate Guide

Evans Waterless Coolant Canada – your Ultimate Guide

Your Ultimate Guide to Evans Waterless Coolant - Prevent Engine Overheating. Water is good, but not for your engine. The primary objective of installing Evans waterless coolant is to eliminate many problems associated with water in conventional water-based cooling systems while increasing reliability and engine life. 

People have lots of questions about Evans Waterless Coolant like:

We want to answer those questions and more about why you should choose Evans waterless coolant in Canada.

 

 

 

WHAT IS WATERLESS COOLANT?

Water-based antifreeze has been used in car engines for about a century, but water can cause major problems inside engines, including corrosion, boil-over, and engine breakdowns. Waterless coolants can prevent engine overheating and reduce cooling system maintenance and can last much longer than a water-based coolant.

To state the obvious: Evans waterless coolant differs from regular coolant because there is no water in it. Waterless coolant is made up of the same basic glycols as regular coolant but operates without the water.
  • Most engine coolants/types of antifreeze are a 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol and water. Waterless coolant is a glycol-based fluid that is ready to use, no water required.
  • Water has superior heat transfer capabilities but water’s low boiling point is close to the operating temperature of an engine, and water can cause corrosion.
  • Waterless coolants provide sufficient heat transfer, boil at a higher temperature, and are non-corrosive.
  • Evans is the only manufacturer of waterless antifreeze.
  • Installing Evans waterless coolant eliminates many problems associated with water in conventional water-based cooling systems while increasing reliability and engine life.

 

 

 

WHY CHOOSE WATERLESS COOLANT?

Evans waterless engine coolants:

  • Increase engine reliability
  • Prevent corrosion due to water
  • Prevent boil-over
  • Have over 20 years of proven functionality
  • Provides extended protection for the engine
  • Improve engine performance
  • Prevent freezing down to -40ºF
  • Perfect for Canadian vehicles

 

 

 

 

EVANS WATERLESS COOLANT BENEFITS

Evans waterless coolants offer several benefits to save you money, time and engine wear.

  • No Corrosion: Because they remove water from the cooling engine system, Evans waterless coolants prevent water-caused corrosion.
  • No Erosion: Evans coolants remain in liquid form and do not vaporize, preventing the “pitting” caused by water vapor.
  • No Overheating: Evans waterless coolants prevent over-boiling by raising the boiling point of antifreeze from around 226°F for water-based antifreeze to 375°F—far above the operating temperature of an engine.
  • No Electrolysis: The absence of water in Evans Waterless Coolant, substantially reduces electrical conductivity of Evans coolant which sharply reduces incidents of electrolysis.
  • No Pressure: Because Evans coolants remain in liquid form, they prevent stress on cooling system components such as hoses, pump seals and radiator seams due to high water pressure.
  • How does Evans help stop coolant change-outs?:  Evans has always contended that the absence of water in a cooling system removes the root causes of metal corrosion, electrolysis, and high system pressures.

  • No Freezing: Evans coolants have natural antifreeze properties down to -40°F—no need to worry about maintaining a 50-50 water-antifreeze balance.
  • No Flushing: Evans coolants do not degrade and are designed to provide an extended service.

 

 

 

 

 

EVANS WATERLESS COOLANT CONVERSION/INSTALLATION

The primary objective of installing Evans waterless coolant is to eliminate many problems associated with water in conventional water-based cooling systems while increasing reliability and engine life.

The conversion from a water-based antifreeze to Evans is a straightforward process that can be undertaken by anyone with some basic experience in engine mechanics, provided the instructions are adhered to.

An important part of a good installation is using Evans Prep Fluid. Prep Fluid is specifically formulated to purge remaining water-based antifreeze from the system after initial drain. Since certain parts of the cooling system might not drain completely by gravity, installing a scavenging fluid is the most practical method of removing all of the water-based antifreeze. The Prep Fluid is not formulated to chemically clean the engine of rust and scale, but the process of circulation and draining will help remove any loose sediment.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

EVANS WATERLESS COOLANT FAQs

The following are questions most often asked by our customers regarding the installation and use of Evans waterless coolants. If you have a question and do not find the answer below, please call our tech line at 888-990-2665 or email tech@evanscooling.com

 

 

 

WHERE TO BUY EVANS WATERLESS COOLANT IN CANADA? 

Evans waterless coolants are available at all P.I. Speed Shop Locations: Toronto - Barrie Brampton - Hamilton - Oshawa 

 

WHICH AUTOMOTIVE COOLANTS ARE WATER-BASED? 

All other commercially available automotive coolants are water-based, or meant to be diluted with water. Evans is the only manufacturer of waterless engine coolant. All Evans coolants are waterless. 

 

 

 

WHICH EVANS PRODUCT SHOULD I USE FOR MY VEHICLE?

High-Performance Waterless Engine Coolant: For cars, and light duty trucks. Also for use in boats, light aircraft, light duty diesels, LP and CNG engines.

Heavy Duty Waterless Engine Coolant: For all heavy duty applications such as class 8 trucks, generators, and off-highway equipment.

Waterless Powersports Coolant: For use in motorcycles, ATV’s, snowmobiles, and other off-road power sports applications.

NPG Waterless Engine Coolant: For racing venues that allow propylene glycol based coolants, but not ethylene glycol based coolants. Not for general use. Adaptive equipment may be needed for specific high-performance applications. Call Evans Cooling Systems for further specifics regarding use of NPG.

Prep Fluid: Used as a waterless flush to remove remaining water-based coolant from the cooling system prior to installing Evans waterless coolant. Prep fluid is 100% compatible with all Evans waterless coolants.

 

 

 

WILL USING EVANS WATERLESS COOLANT VOID MY WARRANTY?

Some vehicle manufacturers may not yet recommend or endorse the use of Evans waterless coolant. However, you are protected by the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. Evans Cooling Systems provides its own warranty, which covers any damages that occur as a result of using the coolant. Contact Evans for more information. Read the full warranty.

 

 

 

FOR HOW LONG IS EVANS WATERLESS COOLANTS WARRANTIED?

Evans Cooling Systems Inc. (ECS) warrants its products to be free from material defects under normal use for a period of two years from the date of purchase. For more information, see the full warranty.

 

 

WHAT IS THE FLASH POINT OF EVANS COOLANT?

The flash point (the lowest temperature at which a combustible substance produces sufficient vapor near its surface to generate an ignitable mixture with air) of Evans waterless coolant is similar to that of conventional water-based coolant, i.e., 248 °F/120°C.

 

WILL EVANS COOLANT ABSORB WATER OVER TIME?

Evans waterless coolant is hygroscopic, which means it has the ability to absorb moisture. As such, containers of unused coolant should be kept tightly closed. In the cooling system, Evans waterless coolant should not absorb a significant amount of moisture from the atmosphere as long as a conventional pressure cap is used. Under normal circumstances, the cap should not open, allowing air to enter the system. 

 

 

HOW DO I INSTALL EVANS WATERLESS COOLANT IN MY VEHICLE?

It is important to thoroughly remove all of the old coolant before installing Evans waterless coolant. See our installation information for complete instructions.

 

 

 

DO I REALLY NEED TO USE PREP FLUID?

Evans recommends using Prep Fluid for all installations to ensure removal of all remaining water-based coolant from the cooling system before installing Evans waterless coolant. In a new or “dry” engine, it is not necessary to use Prep Fluid. 

 

 

 

WHAT HAPPENS IF I HAVE WATER IN MY COOLING SYSTEMS AFTER INSTALLING EVANS COOLANT?

It is important to closely follow directions during the initial Evans waterless coolant installation. A water content higher than 3% will lower the boiling point, and may reduce the corrosion and pump cavitation protection of Evans waterless coolant. If a water test shows there is between 3% and 5% water in the coolant, the corrective action is to drain half of the system volume and add back new Evans waterless coolant. This will reduce the water content to an acceptable range. If the measured water content is greater than 5%, the system must be drained and refilled with new Evans waterless coolant. 

 

HOW WILL I MEASURE WATER CONTENT AFTER INSTALLATION OF EVANS WATERLESS COOLANT?

A refractometer can be used to measure the final water content after conversion to Evans waterless coolant and uses a Brix scale. Refractometers are most commonly used by fleets or conversion facilities where installations are regularly performed. 

 

DO I NEED TO CHANGE MY RADIATOR CAP WHEN USING EVANS COOLANT?

A different radiator/pressure cap is not required with Evans waterless coolant. A water-based coolant generally requires anywhere from a 7 to 15 psig pressure cap. Higher pressure raises the boiling point of water-based coolant. Evans waterless coolant expands slightly as it warms, creating pressure of 3–5 psig, and the existing cap does not need to be changed. 

 

 

DOES EVANS COOLANT REQUIRE PERIODIC MAINTENANCE?

No periodic addition of supplemental coolant additives is required, nor should any ever be added. Evans recommends inspecting the cooling system at least once a year to ensure that no contamination of the coolant has occurred. 

 

IF I HAVE A LEAK OR OTHER EVENT WHERE I NEED TO TOP OFF OR REFILL MY COOLANT AND EVANS IS NOT IMMEDIATELY AVAILABLE, WHAT CAN I SAFELY ADD TO THE COOLING SYSTEM?

With Evans waterless coolant, the likelihood of coolant loss and the need for topping up are greatly reduced. In the event that there is significant coolant loss from the system during operation and no Evans waterless coolant is available to fill the system, water or water-based coolant may be used. However, repairs should be made as soon as possible, and the system should be drained, purged and re-filled with Evans waterless coolant. 

 

WHAT IF I AM USING EVANS WATERLESS COOLANT AND I GET A LEAK?

Leaks should be repaired. Stop-leak type products are not intended to be permanent repairs, but they may be used as a temporary measure. Carefully follow the instructions on the stop leak product label. Overuse may clog radiator and heater core passageways.

 

WHAT EFFECT WILL MIXING EVANS COOLANT WITH WATER OR WATER-BASED COOLANT HAVE ON MY COOLING SYSTEM?

In the short term, no performance issues should result from mixing a small amount of conventional coolant or straight water with Evans waterless coolant. However, the high boiling point and corrosion protection of Evans waterless coolant will be reduced, and the coolant should be replaced as soon as possible. 

 

HOW DO EVANS WATERLESS COOLANTS CONTROL ENGINE METAL TEMPERATURES AS COMPARED TO WATER-BASED COOLANTS UNDER STRESSED CONDITIONS?

Water-based coolant boils at a temperature only slightly higher than the operating temperature of the coolant. The boiling point of water-based coolant is somewhat above the boiling point of water for the pressure of the system. Localized boiling releases water vapor that can only condense into coolant that is colder than the boiling point of water. Any vapor that doesn’t condense occupies a volume that displaces liquid coolant. Water vapor is a very poor conductor of heat. Hot engine metal, insulated by water vapor, becomes an engine “hot spot” that can cause pre ignition and detonation. In contrast, the boiling point of Evans waterless coolant is much higher than the bulk coolant temperature and any locally generated vapor condenses immediately into the surrounding bulk coolant. There is no persistent vapor to insulate between hot metal and the liquid coolant. Liquid coolant is in contact with all of the coolant jacket at all times, providing a path of excellent heat transfer away from the hot metal. 

 

HOW DOES EVANS COOLANT PREVENT AFTER-BOIL?

After-boil occurs in an automotive engine after engine shutdown when the heat in the system cannot be rejected to the air because the coolant is no longer being circulated to the radiator. A coolant near its boiling point will not be able to absorb additional heat without boiling and being forced out through the pressure cap. Conversely, the huge separation between the operating temperature and the boiling point of Evans waterless coolant enables the coolant to act as a heat sink into which heat from hot metal parts of the system can be readily dissipated. Boiling is avoided and there is no build-up of pressure to force coolant out of the system. Stresses on cooling system components are avoided because metal temperatures are kept under control. Learn more about how Evans waterless coolants prevent overheating.

 

 

HOW DOES EVANS COOLANT PREVENT WATER PUMP CAVITATION?

Evans waterless coolant inhibits vapor development in the pump over a broad range of temperatures. With Evans waterless coolant, the suction side of the coolant pump is never at a low enough pressure to flash vaporize the coolant. So, the pump never gets vapor-bound and has the ability to pump coolant over broad range of temperatures. No vapor bubbles are formed to collapse against the metal and cause cavitation erosion damage to the pump. Learn more about how Evans waterless coolants prevent erosion.

 

WILL EVANS COOLANT LOWER THE OPERATING TEMPERATURE OF MY ENGINE?

The effect of Evans waterless coolant on cooling system temperatures will depend on the engine and cooling system configuration, as well as driving conditions. Vehicles running under normal operating conditions should show either no change or a slight increase in temperature. In high horsepower applications, the temperature effect of running Evans waterless coolant will depend on the engine and cooling system components. 

 

IS EVANS ADVOCATING OPERATING ENGINES AT HIGHER TEMPERATURES?

Not really. With Evans waterless coolant, operating temperatures may be modestly higher than those of water-based coolant, depending on driving conditions and whether the vehicle is stock or configured as high-performance. When the engine is stressed, the coolant absorbs more heat and temperatures rise. This is not a concern when using Evans waterless coolant. The combination of the high boiling point of Evans waterless coolant and a correctly-sized cooling system means that an increase in temperature can be accommodated without cooling system failure. 

 

IF I INCREASE MY ENGINE HORSEPOWER AND WANT ADDITIONAL COOLING CAPACITY, WHAT SUGGESTIONS DO YOU HAVE FOR RADIATORS?

In general, Evans recommends single-pass radiators as they have less flow resistance than multi-pass radiators.  The following are minimum radiator core suggestions:

  • 300HP or less without AC........................4 rows: ½” tube copper/brass
  • 300HP to 400HP with AC........................2 rows: 1” tube aluminum
  • 400HP to 600HP.......................................2 rows: 1.25” tube, aluminum
  • 600HP and above.....................................3 rows: 1” tube aluminum
                                                          OR     2 rows: 1.5” tube aluminum

 

 

 

 

 

Tech Tip: Avoid Overheating with Traditional Antifreeze? Good Luck.

You’re damned if you do and damned if you don’t, unless you’re using Evans Coolant. That’s a pretty drastic statement, but let me back it up.

When an engine is running hot with antifreeze in its cooling system, the operator can get into a situation where there are no good options to avoid overheating and potential engine damage. If the antifreeze temperature rises to its boiling (failure) point, there can often be no good way to recover the system equilibrium. Let’s say you’re driving a vintage or muscle car in town and the temperature gets out of hand. I think any motorhead knows the stress of that moment and the need to make the right decision soon.

If you pull over and turn the engine off, the pump stops moving coolant and the fluid in the engine will boil away; this is often referred to as afterboil. It can raise the pressure in the system above the rating of the cap because the steam cannot be released as quickly as it is building. This is a threat to hoses, hose connections, and pump seals in motorcycles. If the head has gotten especially hot on the exhaust valve side, it can warp, ruining the head gasket seal and making it necessary to remove the head to resurface it.

If you continue to run the engine to keep the pump going, you are continuing to create heat. The low RPM of idling may make less heat than revving it, but the pump speed is low enough that cooling is likewise reduced. Getting out onto an open road is not always an option.

We saw this situation at the first two rounds of the American Flat Track motorcycle series this spring. At the Daytona TT, one of the bikes on the podium had a big blue antifreeze puddle under it from afterboil; the air temperature was in the 50’s, the track speeds were high, and there was no dirt or mud in the radiator so the conditions were not those normally associated with overheating. At the next race in Georgia, they stopped the race to clean up after a crash and a number of machines using antifreeze boiled over. The announcer was saying how they should be using Evans Coolant as the riders were going in circles trying to get their bikes to cool down. While I don’t want to name the teams that were overheating, I will say that the winner of both events, Jared Mees on the factory Indian FTR750, never had a problem. You will be surprised, I’m sure, that we are a proud sponsor of his racing effort! You can watch the Flat Track racing live on Fanschoice.tv or on NBC Sports starting in July. We’ll see you at the races!

 

Tech Tip – Evans Coolant Maintenance

Evans Coolant is essentially maintenance free. Now I know that the word "essentially" is a qualifier that can cover over a shady statement, so I'll explain a bit more. There are really two aspects about 50/50 antifreeze that make regular maintenance necessary. The corrosion protecting additives settle out or are consumed over time. The other issue is that the 50/50 ratio will change over time reducing the coolant's heat transfer property.

The additive issue is pretty well known, so I'll leave that explanation as is. The glycol/water ratio is an aspect that kind of sneaks up on you. Topping up is needed due to fluid loss through boiling; if you need to top up, it's a sign of coolant boiling - overheating.

The vapor formed within the cooling system starts out as an even mix of glycol and water, but the glycol component will easily condense back into the liquid because the boiling point of glycol is so high. This means that the vapor leaving the system is mainly water. (The water can't condense in the surrounding fluid because the boiling point of antifreeze is higher than straight water.)

Over time, the ratio of the antifreeze mix will trend towards a heavier glycol concentration which lowers the heat transfer capacity of the fluid, making overheating a more common occurrence. This is why people will switch to a different antifreeze and conclude that it cools better - they have actually just gotten back to a 50/50 ratio.

Now, back to the maintenance needs of Evans Waterless Coolant. Our additives are different from those used in antifreeze; they are stable and remain in solution indefinitely. This means that there is nothing to go bad in our coolant and so it lasts the lifetime of the engine. I've used the same fluid in one of my motorcycles since 1994. The freeze point is -40F/C and it shrinks when frozen, so there is no freeze-burst danger, even in  extreme cold conditions. If our coolant becomes contaminated with water or other foreign substances, then maintenance would be needed.

 

Tech Tip: Prepare Your Engine for Winter

As winter descends upon much of the  powersports world, it’s easy to let your machine sit where you parked it last. Resist this unassisted hibernation! A little care now will save you so much trouble when spring returns; we all know the creeping guilt of neglect throughout the winter. The best solution is really to just keep riding year ‘round, but that’s not always possible. (Snow warriors, see below!)

Drain the gas from the carburetors if your machine isn’t fuel injected. Either fill the gas tank to the top or drain it completely to avoid water contamination due to temperature swings drawing humidity into the tank. If you can get ethanol-free gas or, even better, race gas, it will stay fresh longer; gas additives can help too. If your bike stands tall on the kickstand, put a block under the footpeg on the other side in case a slow tire leak threatens to tip the bike over in January.

Whether you are putting the fun away for winter or not, change your coolant over to a waterless coolant. Evans Coolant is stable and doesn’t go bad with time or use and there is never a danger of freeze-burst damage, so it’s the best solution for long term storage. If you’re lucky enough to be able to keep riding year ‘round, Evans Coolant will keep the engine metal temperatures under control regardless of conditions.

Last winter was a bit thin for many of our snowmobile riders and we’re excited for a generous winter this time around! Pull your sled out from under the junk that mysteriously accumulated over the summer and  get it prepped to rip! You’ve got some time still, so get in there and put the most durable coolant available in your machine! Evans Coolant will stretch the riding season by allowing you to ride even if there isn’t the most perfect snow cover. A bare frozen lake or run down a plowed road for gas won’t overheat your engine if you’ve got a coolant that can handle it.

 

Tech Tip: Coolant VS Metal Temperature

I recently saw on a forum someone asking how it can be possible to see a higher coolant temperature at the same time as our coolant is keeping the engine cooler. It's not as crazy as it sounds!

First, let's not confuse coolant temperature with metal temperature. People tend to focus on coolant temperature for two very good reasons, it's visible on the gauge and engine overheating starts with overheating the coolant. If you're on the edge of overheating your coolant (220-230F), another 10 degrees will push it over the edge. The metal components, however, don't care about a 10-degree rise.

The metal components can become overheated once antifreeze boils to vapour inside the engine. Local boiling around the exhaust valves will empty the cooling jacket there of liquid antifreeze allowing the metal temperature to spike by hundreds of degrees.

The temperature of our coolant can be higher at the gauge (we're talking 10 degrees or less - not much) while keeping the metal temperatures at all locations under control. See? The science does make sense once you understand what's going on internally!

 

Tech Tip: Multiple Pass Radiators

There’s the belief among some that the engine coolant can go through the radiator too fast and not have enough time to dissipate its heat or that it’s passing through the engine too fast to pick the heat up. This belief probably originated via the observation that removing the thermostat can cause the engine to boil over faster. Adding a baffle into the thermostat housing to restrict coolant flow will then make boiling over less prominent. (The reality here is that a flow restriction at the coolant’s exit from the engine will raise the pressure within the engine which raises the boiling point of the fluid inside the engine cooling jacket.)

Another method of slowing the coolant flow that people use is a multiple pass radiator. They see it as a dual benefit of slowing the flow and providing the additional cooling of more radiator surface. It does decrease the radiator outlet temperature, but the temperature within the engine will actually go up because the fluid spends more time there as well.

Regardless of the fluid used, it is always easier to transfer heat between liquid and metal than it is between metal and air. The system’s heat transfer limit is at the radiator. The radiator is more efficient with a greater temperature difference between the metal and the air. If the air temperature is 90 and the radiator temperature is 95, not much heat will transfer compared to an air temperature of 90 and a radiator temperature of 250. (I’m using extreme temp numbers here just to make the point.) This means that the cooler end of a multiple pass radiator is less efficient than the hotter end.

A cooling system works best when there is a fast coolant flow and the radiator temperature remains high because it can shed heat to the atmosphere better. Water-based antifreeze puts a limit on the coolant flow rate because the pump can only turn so fast before it cavitates. Basically, the low pressure side of the pump has a lower boiling point and the fluid will vaporize; the pump can’t move a vapor.

Evans Coolant solves the boiling point problem allowing aggressive pump speeds and eliminating the need for engine coolant exit restrictors.

 

Tech Tip: Hot Weather

It's above 90°F the A/C is on, temp gauge has moved from normal to almost too hot what can be done? Most cooling systems today have a heater core built in for defrosting the windshield, cold weather heat or defogging in rainy weather. Most people do not know that the heater circuit is on all the time in most applications. Hot coolant is circulating through the heater core under the dash, this coolant does not go through the radiator to dissipate heat and help cool the engine. The heater circuit is a radiator bypass loop, some systems have a control valve that shuts off the coolant flow when heat is not condition to help lower the temperature why not be more comfortable and let the radiator do it's job. To remedy this problem a simple manual valve can be installed in the heater feed line or a 1/4" restriction can be fabricated and put in the hose. Before doing this make sure the hose you select only feeds the heater core. By shutting off or restricting this circuit it redirects the coolant flow to the radiator where the operating temperature can be decreased by 10 to 20 degrees.

Tech Tip: Decreasing System Pressure

Automotive cooling systems use "system pressure" to affect cooling functions. The action of the pump pushing coolant through the engine against restriction creates pressure.
This pressure varies with engine rpm when a crankshaft-driven pump is used; An electric pump maintains a constant pressure or varies the pressure related to engine temperature. System pressure can be as high as 40psi or more at the engine outlet/cylinder heads or as low as 5psi at the pump inlet during idle. A pressure drop, through the radiator core, accompanies the drop in temperature of the coolant.

System pressure is affected by:

  • Engine design
  • Radiator configuration
  • Thermostat design
  • Hose size
  • Pump output

The only way to change this pressure is to increase/decrease pump flow or add or remove restriction from the system.

The water component of coolant boiling, in the hottest areas of the engine, creates expansive vapor, which further pressurizes the system. "Cap pressure" refers to the amount of liquid and vapor pressure held in the system at the cap location. This is the only pressure that is obvious to everyone, it's stated on the radiator cap. Depending on the location of the cap it can be as low as 4psi or as high as 35psi.

The boiling point of water, normally 212°F, for every 3 psi is raised 1°F. of additional pressure. A typical 15 psi. cap, will hold the water in the system up to about 257 degrees F. This does not mean there is no boiling in the engine up to this temperature, but it is the point, up to which the cap will contain the expansive nature of the vapor.

When using Evans Coolant in the engine cooling system these pressures can be decreased to maximize the system's flow and temperature control capabilities. These changes are application specific and should be discussed before proceeding. Please contact Evans Tech Support at 1-888-990-2665 or tech@evanscooling.com.

Tech Tip: Coolant Pump Drive Ratio

Do you know your coolant pump drive ratio? You can find it by dividing the diameter of your crankshaft pulley by the diameter of the water pump pulley.

For example:
8” crank /6” pump = 1.333, or 33% overdrive for the pump. 4000 engine RPM would be about 5300 RPM at the pump.
A figure less than 1.0 would indicate an underdriven pump.

For example:
6” crank /7”pump = .85, or 15% underdrive. 4000 engine RPM would be about 3400 at the pump.

Generally, overdriving the pump will give better cooling system performance in a street car. (OEM ratios are often 25% overdrive or greater) A street/strip, road racing or off-road application which sees sustained high RPM, should underdrive the pump.

Coolant pump performance is affected by driven speed, also by radiator type, and by restrictions such as thermostat type and hose size.

Tech Tip: Storage of Used Evans Coolant

Evans Waterless Coolants are hygroscopic. Hygroscopic is defined as "tending to absorb moisture from the air." When working on a system containing Evans Coolants, the coolant should be drained then stored in a sealed container. If possible, the openings of the system should also be blocked or plugged to limit exposure of the remaining Evans Coolant to the atmosphere. Always recheck the coolant water content before reinstalling with a refractometer or test strip. If there is any question to the water content call 888 990-COOL or email tech@evanscooling.com.

Tech Tip: Thermostat

The thermostat in an engine cooling system has two purposes; The first is temperature control and the second is restriction. Thermostats are typically located in one of two places, the upper hose or the lower hose. Upper hose locations control the coolant leaving the engine, typically a higher temperature is used, and more restriction. Lower hose location controls incoming coolant to the engine; The temperature and restriction is typically less than the upper hose location due to heat absorption through the engine. Temperature control is determined by the OEM or the DIYer, per the application they are building.

Today's OEM engines use many thermostat designs and the aftermarket has different designs for most applications (high flow, bypassing, fail-safe, balance sleeve). Removal of the thermostat is possible on some applications BUT NOT ALL! Evans High-Performance Coolant can take advantage of the different design thermostats or removal of the thermostat when possible, due to a higher boiling point than water or 50/50. Carbureted engines can benefit from lower thermostat setting, but computer-controlled fuel injection typically requires temperature control in a specific range. For more information on your application please contact Evans Cooling Systems.

 

 

EVANS WATERLESS COOLANT CONVERSION/INSTALLATION

The primary objective of installing Evans waterless coolant is to eliminate many problems associated with water in conventional water-based cooling systems while increasing reliability and engine life.

The conversion from a water-based antifreeze to Evans is a straightforward process that can be undertaken by anyone with some basic experience in engine mechanics, provided the instructions are adhered to.

An important part of a good installation is using Evans Prep Fluid. Prep Fluid is specifically formulated to purge remaining water-based antifreeze from the system after initial drain. Since certain parts of the cooling system might not drain completely by gravity, installing a scavenging fluid is the most practical method of removing all of the water-based antifreeze. The Prep Fluid is not formulated to chemically clean the engine of rust and scale, but the process of circulation and draining will help remove any loose sediment.

 

Evans Waterless Coolant Installation video - 1959 Ferrari
Installation Instructions for Evans Waterless Coolant in a 1959 Ferrari.

 

 

2015 Roush Stage 3 Mustang - Evans waterless coolant Conversion

Watch how this beautiful 2015 Roush Stage 3 Mustang is converted to Evans Waterless Engine Coolant!

 

Evans waterless coolant conversion -1970 Chevelle

 

 

Installing Evans Waterless Coolant in a 1969 Ford Mustang

Classic Car Restoration Club, installing Evans High-Performance Waterless Coolant in '69 Mustang. Having been around cars for a long time, you know you get to a point where you think you've seen everything and done everything but you know then a product like this Evans waterless coolant comes along and makes you rethink some of the stuff you always thought to be the truth. Evans - I'm a huge fan of the product because for what I do restorations on classics 60s and 70s cars and the customers that I deal with our high-end customers that want longevity durability and reliability of their product and investment for the money that they put into the car. By far this is the best thing you could buy for your cooling system so it's also it's not only a good solution for a long-term coolant because it will last a lifetime but it also protects everything else that you've got into your car so you know things like those aluminum parts are not going to corrode and you're not going to have to worry about the solution becoming acidic over time.

 

2007 Monster Energy Jeep conversion to Evans Waterless Coolant

Watch how the Monster Energy Jeep gets upgraded to Evans Waterless Coolant. Mike Torvill from Evans cooling systems at West Coast marketing in Oakland California converting this 2007 JK Jeep to Evans waterless coolant. When jeeps like this are operating in extreme environments, you're subjected to hot dusty dirty conditions that often lead to overheating with water-based coolants. You're subjected to corrosion electrolysis and boil over which means overheating. With Evans waterless coolant those problems go away because having stops corrosion it stops electrolysis and most important Evans high boiling point of three hundred and seventy-five degrees means you won't form vapour you won't build pressure and it stays in its liquid state.

 

Watch a 1969 Dodge Daytona Evans Waterless Coolant Conversion at The American Muscle Car Museum

Watch as this 1969 Hemi Orange Dodge Daytona, one of the big NASCAR cars, is converted to Evans High-Performance Waterless Coolant at the American Muscle Car Museum in Melbourne, FL.


Evans Waterless Coolant is the preferred coolant of the American Muscle Car Museum because vintage and classic cars often experience engine corrosion when they use traditional coolant. Evans Waterless Coolant prevents corrosion and keeps your engine from boiling over.


Traditional coolant is 50% water, which can cause engine corrosion and electrolysis, as well as engine boilover. Water’s 212-degree boiling point is close to the operating temperature of an engine, so it can quickly turn to vapour, which puts stress on cooling system components such as hoses, pump seals and radiator seams, and causes “pitting” inside the radiator. Evans Waterless Coolants are glycol-based fluids that contain no water, so you avoid the overheating, engine corrosion, and electrolysis caused by water-based cooling systems in classic cars.


To convert this Dodge Daytona, we start by hooking up our coolant lines and putting in the Evans Prep Fluid, which has been specifically designed to purge the water from the system. Once the Prep Fluid is in, we run the car for 10-12 minutes to get it up to temperature, then we take the lines off again and get ready to pump in the Evans Waterless Coolant. We get our hoses hooked up and pump in the Evans Coolant. Once we have the Evans Coolant in we take a little sample and run it on the refractometer find out exactly the percentage of water that's in the solution. We need to be 3% or less. We can see it’s at 2.5% so we know it's good, and we can call this another successful Evans Waterless Coolant exchange.

 

See why this 1949 Ford Woody is being converted to Evans Waterless Coolant

John Siragusa, the Senior Director of Sales & Business Development for the National Hot Rod Association (NHRA) is having his second car converted to Evans waterless coolant. The first car he had converted was a 1947 Ford Woody station wagon equipped with an original flathead V8. Siragusa keeps his Ford Woody in Southern California, where hot weather can lead to classic car engine overheating, especially for cars equipped with the Ford flathead V8 engine, which is notorious for overheating.


Because it contains no water, Evans is the perfect antifreeze for older cars, and since Siragusa has converted to Evans coolant, he no longer has to worry about engine overheating or overboiling.


The boiling point of Evans waterless coolant is 375 degrees, which is far higher than waters at 212 degrees and regular coolants at 235 degrees. That means unlike with water-based coolants, Evans won't form vapour in your engine. That’s important because in an engine cooling system using traditional antifreeze, engine overheating causes vapour pockets to form between the liquid coolant and the metal components, creating a barrier that prevents heat from being drawn away from the engine. That’s when your engine gets too hot and boil over happens.

 

By converting to Evans waterless coolants in his vehicles, Siragusa is not only preventing boilover, he no longer has to worry about corrosion around components including the cylinder heads, water jackets, and water pump. Watch to see why Siragusa highly recommends Evans to anybody and everybody for their cars.

 

Cameron Steele installs Evans Waterless Powersports Coolant into his JCR Honda!

 

 

Learn how to prep the engine and install Evans Waterless Powersports Coolant in a bike.

 

 

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